Know-how
Answers to the questions we hear most often – brief, without jargon, with the numbers you actually need. Everything else by phone.
All three can come from the same hide. Nappa shows the grain side smooth. Suede is buffed on the flesh side – velvety, open-pored, more delicate. Nubuck is lightly buffed on the grain side: finer than suede, nobler in hand, equally prone to staining. For garments mostly nappa or suede; for furniture nappa or protected nubuck.
Aniline is dyed through and open-pored: finest hand, every mark visible, hardly any protection – ages with patina. Semi-aniline carries a thin top coat: natural look, some protection. Pigmented is opaquely coated: uniform, robust, easy-care – less nature. Rule of thumb: the more public and demanding the use, the more pigment.
As a guide: 0.4–0.6 mm for linings and gloves, 0.6–0.8 mm for garments, 0.9–1.2 mm for bags, upholstery and vehicle seats, 1.3–1.8 mm for furniture, belts and heavy bags. Thinner means softer and easier to sew, thicker means more body and durability. The sewing machine and edge finishing have a say too.
Leather is sold by hide area, in square metres or square feet (1 m² ≈ 10.76 sq ft). Hides are irregular, with edges, scars and flaws – allow 20 to 40 percent waste on top of the net pattern area, depending on your pieces. Lamb skins run 0.5–0.8 m², cow sides 2–2.8 m². Large parts need large hides, not many small ones.
Chrome-tanned leather is soft, colour-fast, water-resistant and makes up most garment and upholstery leather. Vegetable-tanned leather is firmer, can be tooled, moulded and edge-polished – and darkens beautifully over time. Chrome-free (FOC) leathers sit in between and are required for children’s goods, automotive and certain certifications. The question is never “better”, but “for what”.
When surfaces must be large and uniform, when cleaning is aggressive, when moisture is involved, when the budget is tight or a collection is meant to be vegan. Faux leather comes off the roll, without flaws or cutting risk. It does not breathe, gains no patina and ages differently. Both have their place – we recommend what fits the use, not what costs more.
From stock we sell from a single hide, remnants also as single pieces in the showroom. Stock items ship at short notice. For sourcing – specific articles, colours, larger quantities – we quote lead time and price up front; production at the tannery takes a few weeks depending on the article.
Less is more: dust off dry, dab stains immediately instead of rubbing, no household cleaners. Nourish smooth leather occasionally with a suitable product, only brush and waterproof suede and nubuck. Direct sun and radiators dry out any leather. If in doubt, test on a hidden spot – or ask us.
